Piedmont’s symbolic red, served at a temperature of 11 degrees, is a hit with foreign tourists and local visitors alike. The event, conceived by the Municipality of Costigliole in collaboration with AIS sommelier teams, is a success that was far from guaranteed. It is the result of meticulous preparation and a new way of storytelling and promoting red wine in the summer.
EDITORIAL – With the 2025 harvest in full swing across Italy, a load of grapes arriving at the press is expected to reach 40-45 million hectoliters. This will exceed the unsold stocks in Italian cellars, which stood at 39.8 million hectoliters in storage as of July 30. Costigliole d’Asti is teaching the “Bel Paese” how to talk about and promote wine in 2025. This is a turning point for the consumption crisis—which is actually more of an identity crisis and how it should, first and foremost, be addressed. A stagnant sector on the brink of the abyss, partly due to an aging and inadequate leadership class, is the problem. It is unable to find solutions to the structural problems it created itself during the—anything but biblical—era of the fat and drunken cows.
BARBERA SUMMER FESTIVAL: MUCH MORE THAN A WINE EVENT
Costigliole d’Asti, a charming Piedmontese village of just over 5,500 inhabitants, has managed to pull off a miracle against the trend. It did so without disrupting the status quo too much. Instead, it stands as an example for the entire country, pulling nothing other than its own rabbit out of the hat: Barbera. Indeed, the Barbera Summer Festival 2025—”concerts, tastings, cuisine, nature” at the San Michele Amphitheatre—took place over four evenings from June 25 to July 30. It surpassed the now well-established acclaim of Rosso Barbera, the annual showcase for the grape variety held at the Castle, traditionally between October and November.
The endless queues to secure a glass for the tasting of Barbera (and Moscato d’Asti, including the dry version) from over 70 wineries, paired with hot dishes prepared on the spot, tell the story of the beauty and quality of an Italy that, if it wants to, still knows how to win over both young and old. This happens around a glass of wine and a gastronomic offering without too many frills. Isn’t this the strength, even in terms of image, of our country? The architects of this unparalleled success were the Municipality of Costigliole d’Asti, a young and highly dynamic team—coincidentally…—of AIS sommeliers, and volunteers from the local Pro Loco. The event was sponsored by the Barbera d’Asti and Moscato d’Asti Consortia.
PREPARATIONS UNDERWAY FOR ROSSO BARBERA 2025 AT THE CASTLE OF COSTIGLIOLE D’ASTI
“The results of the Barbera Summer Festival 2025,” comments Laura Bianco, Deputy Mayor in charge of Events, “have been extraordinary. So much so that we plan to extend the 2026 edition to every Wednesday in July, adding at least one evening. The opening night last June started with at least 400-500 people. Then it was a crescendo, reaching a thousand on the final night. No one had ever pushed Barbera in the summer like we have. Doing so during this crisis for Italian wine, which particularly penalizes red wines, was courageous. Now we just have to study something more for next year. We are already focused on the winter event, Rosso Barbera 2025, scheduled from October 31 to November 3 at the Castle of Costigliole d’Asti.”
Pierluigi Bianco is the AIS Asti sommelier who coordinated the tasting counters. “The idea,” he explains, “is to offer these young Barberas, vinified in steel, at a temperature of 11 degrees. In a short time, in the glass, they reach 14-15 degrees in summer. Something we are, unfortunately, not used to. But thanks to events like the Barbera Summer Festival, it could become the rule. In fact, it’s normal to chill the rosé, sparkling, and spumante versions of Barbera. Finding the classic red version served chilled is almost a miracle. I believe it’s time to start considering this service method as normal in restaurants of all levels.”
WINE, FOOD, TOURISM: BARBERA SUMMER FESTIVAL IS A TERRITORIAL PACT
Not just wine. There was also space for food in the splendid setting of the San Michele Amphitheatre in Costigliole d’Asti. Because summer Barbera, served chilled, opens up the range of Piedmont’s symbolic red wine. It goes from a simple glass to be enjoyed on its own to the most diverse pairings. “Three appetizers, a first course, and a second course, from French fries to agnolotti, including the classic salamella sausage,” emphasizes the president of the Pro Loco, Pietro Luca Casuccio.
“We are extremely satisfied with the success of this ‘year zero.’ We are already ready for a 2026 edition that, in the best of hopes, will confirm the excellent debut in terms of extraordinary public participation.” There was also room for cocktails with the Barberino, a creation by the owner of the Enoteca Bar Roma in Costigliole d’Asti, Gino Risso. This was a true “cult” hit in the nineties. In this establishment, beer was banned. Only quality Asti and Piedmontese wines were served, even by the glass.
COSTIGLIOLE D’ASTI: WINE (STILL) DRIVES TOURISM
A territory, that of Costigliole, rows together in the same direction, turning the moment of crisis for red wines into an opportunity. “Following up on Rosso Barbera through the Barbera Summer Festival,” comments the Mayor of Costigliole d’Asti, Enrico Alessandro Cavallero, “has proved to be a very successful move. We managed to demonstrate that this red wine, served chilled, can be drunk in any season. But that’s not the only goal achieved.”
“In recent years we have managed to consolidate tourism in Costigliole d’Asti, with an increase of 5,000 visitors in the last year alone, 90% of whom were foreigners. We are talking about significant numbers, in the region of 29,000 people. Tourists who are increasingly discovering our territory and its great treasure, Barbera. This,” concludes the mayor of the Piedmontese village, “is also thanks to the increase in accommodation facilities, which have grown from just over 20 to about 70. The success of the Barbera Summer Festival gives people one more reason to visit Costigliole d’Asti, or to return to stay in our Municipality.”
Summer Barbera boom in Costigliole d’Asti: a lesson for an Italian wine industry in crisis. https://www.comune.costigliole.at.it/.
