State of the art, or rather of abandonment, of a grape variety historically present in Northern Italy, of which only one “parent” is known: Coccalona Nera. There is in fact no kinship or relationship between Italico and Rhine Riesling.
In Italy, Riesling Italico today occupies a rather limited area, concentrated mainly in Lombardy, in Oltrepò Pavese, and in some hilly areas of Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and Trentino-Alto Adige. The most recent estimates indicate approximately 1,200-1,300 hectares in 2021, down from over 2,300 hectares recorded in the early 1990s. The reduction has been constant for decades, but in some areas, particularly in Oltrepò Pavese—where 95% of the current vineyard area in Italy is located—there are signs of renewed interest in this grape variety from a small group of producers.
From a stylistic standpoint, Riesling Italico offers medium-bodied wines, straw yellow in color with greenish reflections, characterized by aromas of quince, apricot, and mineral notes. On the palate they are fresh, dry, sometimes with a slight bitter finish and good acidity. Its versatility also makes it suitable for producing sparkling and frizzante wines, especially in hilly contexts and dry climates, where the acidic component and fragrance are enhanced.
GROW DU MONDE, THE INTERNATIONAL WINE COMPETITION ON RIESLING ITALICO
In recent years, dedicated tastings and international competitions have begun to pay greater attention to this variety, though it remains undervalued in the national wine landscape. An obstacle to its recognition, especially in Oltrepò Pavese, is the lack of clear communication in distinguishing Riesling Italico from Rhine Riesling, a situation that has so far slowed the construction of a precise identity. The two grape varieties, in fact, have no kinship whatsoever. Only one parent of Riesling Italico is known, Coccalona Nera, according to DNA studies conducted by researchers at the CNR.
Abroad, events such as the Grow du Monde competition have helped to showcase the grape’s potential, with over 250 samples being tasted, mainly from Central Europe. Italy has not yet participated significantly, but is a candidate to host a future edition of the event. Meanwhile, among enthusiasts and more attentive consumers, there is growing awareness that Riesling Italico, when well interpreted, can offer fresh, mineral wines of remarkable drinkability, earning itself a more stable place on wine lists and in producers’ choices.
CURRENT TRENDS AND POPULARITY OF THE RIESLING ITALICO GRAPE VARIETY
- Undervalued but with potential
The tasting organized by winemag.it highlighted how Riesling Italico remains a grape variety often overlooked at the national level, despite encouraging signs especially in Oltrepò Pavese. - Issues of communication and clarity toward consumers, currently misled by the name
The Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese does not appear willing, at the moment, to resolve the serious problem of lack of clarity in differentiating Riesling Italico and Rhine Riesling, slowing the emergence of a precise identity for the grape variety. - International initiatives
The international Grow du Monde competition annually puts the spotlight on over 250 samples of Riesling Italico, demonstrating versatility and quality potential. While Italy had no participants in 2023, it achieved excellent results with the samples entered in the 2024 edition. - Perception among enthusiasts
On Reddit, a social news and entertainment website where registered users (“redditors”) can create and share content, vote on others’ content, and participate in discussions within thematic communities (“subreddits”), Riesling Italico is described as “Italian riesling criminally underrated” and appreciated for its well-defined minerality and acidity. Another comment reads: “Riesling Italico recommended as an Italian white wine to pair when red alternatives are lacking.”
