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Sweet and sparkling Tokaj wines: Hungary reorganizes wine styles

IN BREVE
  • The European Union has published the request to amend the product specification for the Tokaj protected designation of origin, initiating an opposition period.
  • The amendment simplifies the production range, eliminating wine styles considered marginal such as Aszúeszencia and dry Fordítás.
  • The specification formally separates Szamorodni versions into dry and sweet to clarify wine classification.
  • It introduces updates to analytical and organoleptic parameters, increasing the minimum sugar content in late harvest wines.
  • The production method for Tokaj sparkling wines is changing: it will now be traditional method only, and fermentation in large sealed tanks is no longer permitted.

The European Union published the application for the amendment of the product specification for the protected designation of origin Tokaj / Tokaji in the Official Journal on March 6, 2026. This historic Hungarian wine region is famous for its sweet botrytized wines. The request was submitted by the Council of Wine Communities of the Tokaj Wine Region and covers various styles, from sweet wines to sparkling wines. A three-month period stipulated by European regulations is now open for any objections from Member States, third countries, or parties with a legitimate interest.

REDUCTION OF WINE STYLES IN THE TOKAJ PDO

One of the most significant interventions concerns the simplification of the designation’s production range. The specification proposes the elimination of several styles considered marginal in recent years. Specifically, the following will disappear:

  • Aszúeszencia: the most extreme and concentrated style in the Tokaj universe, linked to botrytized aszú grapes, with a very sweet and rich profile. Not to be confused with the Eszencia style, the rarest and most concentrated Tokaj specialty obtained from the must that drips spontaneously from botrytized aszú berries under their own weight, without pressing, which remains at the top of the quality pyramid.
  • Dry Fordítás: wine obtained by adding must or wine to the pressed pomace of aszú grapes, but in the dry version.
  • Dry Máslás: wine obtained by refermenting or aging must or wine on Aszú or Szamorodni lees, also in the dry version.

According to documentation published by the European Commission, the choice aims to “concentrate production on a more limited number of wines to strengthen the identity and recognition of the Tokaj PDO on the markets.”

SZAMORODNI DIVIDED INTO DRY AND SWEET

The specification also proposes formally separating the Szamorodni style into two distinct categories:

  • Dry Szamorodni
  • Sweet Szamorodni

Until now, the two versions were included in the same category, despite having different sensory descriptions. The amendment aims to “make the classification clearer without introducing substantial changes to production characteristics.”

NEW PARAMETERS FOR RESIDUAL SUGAR AND GRAPE QUALITY

Technical amendments also include updates to the analytical and organoleptic parameters of the wines. In particular, an increase in the minimum residual sugar content for late harvest wines is planned, to make their profile more consistent with that of sweet Szamorodni.

At the same time, the minimum sugar content required for grapes intended for various wine styles is being increased, with the aim of standardizing the quality levels of the designation.

REDUCTION OF WOOD AGING PERIODS

The specification also proposes a revision of aging times in wooden barrels for some of the designation’s historic styles. The reduction in the maturation period will affect:

  • Tokaji Aszú
  • Dry Szamorodni
  • Sweet Szamorodni
  • Fordítás
  • Máslás

“The goal,” explain the promoters, “is to harmonize the rules already modified for Aszú starting from the 2013 vintage and make the production system for the region’s wine specialties more consistent.”

TOKAJ SPARKLING WINE ONLY WITH BOTTLE FERMENTATION

Another significant change concerns the production method for Tokaj sparkling wines. The specification eliminates the possibility of fermentation in sealed tanks with CO₂ formation—the Italian/Charmat method, typical of Prosecco—and establishes that the second fermentation must take place exclusively in the bottle.

In other words, Tokaj Sparkling wine will be traditional method only. According to the document, the traditional method is considered “the only one suitable for the production of high-quality and prestigious sparkling wines in the region.”

MECHANICAL HARVESTING PERMITTED ONLY FOR CERTAIN STYLES

The new specification also introduces greater flexibility in viticultural practices. Mechanical harvesting will be permitted for:

  • base white wines
  • wines intended for sparkling wine production

However, hand-harvesting will remain mandatory for traditional styles, particularly for aszú grapes, which must be individually selected.

MANDATORY BOTTLING IN THE PRODUCTION AREA

The specification also confirms that most Tokaj wines must be bottled exclusively within the production area. The measure is justified by the need to preserve the characteristics of the wines during the aging and storage phases, “avoiding risks of oxidation or alterations related to transport.”

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