The new label, positioned at the top of the Bolzano winery’s quality pyramid, was presented today. A “Super Alto Adige” whose name recalls the triangular shape of the vineyard where the grapes are grown, in the “cru” of the Gries district. 2022 vintage, limited edition of 2,500 bottles. Price is around 75 euros.
Trigon, meaning triangle. Tenuta Rottensteiner has chosen an evocative name for the Lagrein Gries Riserva Alto Adige Südtirol DOC that now enriches the top of their quality pyramid—the price is around 75 euros—a range that already symbolized the winery’s love for this grape variety. The presentation of the new wine took place today at Iyo Kaiseki, the ultimate expression of Japanese cuisine in Milan. More than just the “triangle” reflecting the shape of the vineyard, Trigon represents the perfect balance for Lagrein that Hannes and Judith Rottensteiner have been seeking for years with Alto Adige’s iconic grape variety.
TRIGON, ANOTHER ROTTENSTEINER TRIBUTE TO LAGREIN DI GRIES
«After years of unsatisfactory trials on a portion of the vineyard that contributes to the production of Select Lagrein Grieser Riserva,» emphasized Hannes Rottensteiner, «we have finally realized the dream of bottling the fruit of a further selection of Lagrein, thus giving life to Trigon 2022.» In the glass, the “family resemblance” between the two wines is clear: to summarize the concept, Trigon feels like a Select “to the third power.” A Lagrein “cubed.” Capable of reconciling power, elegance, drinkability, and the character of the Gries “cru”, a Bolzano district widely recognized as the most prestigious and suitable area for this South Tyrolean variety.
A TASTE OF TRIGON, THE NEW LAGREIN FROM TENUTA ROTTENSTEINER
A wine that follows the direction set in recent years by the Alto Adige Wine Consortium, which is promoting the production of single-parcel and vineyard-selection wines across the region. «The heart of the Trigon project,» revealed Hannes and Judith Rottensteiner, «ist a philosophy that aims for essentiality. Strictly limited vineyard yields, manual harvesting, and an elegant yet minimalist label that reflects the desire to give more importance to the content than the container. The principle is that less is more.»
By eliminating the superfluous—primarily by limiting the yields of Lagrein, an otherwise very generous variety—a clear, sober narrative of Gries emerges. One that makes subtraction a plus. And the pairing with Premium Wagyu (A5 marbling striploin, ponzu sauce, yuzukosho) by chef Katsumi Soga of Iyo Kaiseki reaches heights of absolute perfection.
TRIGON ROTTENSTEINER: TRIANGLE. SQUARE. CIRCLE.
Thus, Trigon expresses fruit, flowers, and tertiary notes in the glass: violet, blackberry, blackcurrant, and a touch of blood orange. Then tobacco, chocolate, licorice, vanilla, and salted butter. The days when Lagrein was only used to support Schiava, giving it body and structure, are long gone. Trigon stands proud and elegant, in a “black tie” style, with a full-bodied structure and luscious fruit. It is led by the hand toward a long finish by a sharp freshness and a very pleasant salinity.
A very worthy new entry into the Hall of Fame of “Super Alto Adige” wines. Wines that don’t always make the wallet so happy. A non-trivial detail for a label that, in this way, seems to close a perfect circle. After evoking the triangle in its name. And the square in its concept.
Südtirol Alto Adige DOC Lagrein Riserva 2022 Trigon (13.5%)
Winemag Wine Guide Score: 96/100
Floral: 8.5
Fruit: 8.5
Spices, herbs: 9
Freshness: 9
Tannins: 6.5
Sapidity: 8
Alcohol perception: 6.5
Overall harmony: 9.5
Drinkability: 8
Food pairing: 10
When to drink: now / 3+ years
Trigon Rottensteiner: squaring the circle on Lagrein di Gries. https://www.shop.rottensteiner.wine/it/trigon-lagrein-gries-riserva-alto-adige-doc-39.
