A Viognier and a Lagrein for Summer: Girasasso and Michele Simoni

A Viognier and a Lagrein for summer. Not so much reflections of climate change, but of the eye—or rather, the vision, forward-thinking and attentive—of winegrowers who know how to hit the mark with their (spot-on) choices in the vineyard and, consequently, in the glass. The Viognier comes from the Girasasso winery: it’s called La Volpe & l’uva and it’s a Maremma Toscana DOC 2024. The Lagrein, on the other hand, comes from Trentino (not Alto Adige, mind you). It’s called Zio Bepi and is produced in Val di Cembra by Azienda Agricola Michele Simoni.

Hand-harvested, gently pressed, and aged on fine lees, the Viognier 2024 La volpe & l’uva from Girasasso, Riccardo Colasanti’s winery in Massa Marittima, in the province of Grosseto. The result is a wine with a restrained aromatic profile, perfectly balanced on freshness and a subtle saline note. Medium-bodied and elegant, it represents a new way of presenting the variety, typically very aromatic, high in alcohol, and “rich.” In short, a highly drinkable wine, yet capable of pairing with both seafood and land-based dishes. A new voice, Girasasso, to keep in high regard among the wines of the Maremma coast.

Tenuta Girasasso was born as a young wine startup nestled in the metalliferous hills of Maremma Toscana, facing the Castle of Pia de’ Tolomei. With six hectares of vineyards established in 2015, the estate focuses on white varieties such as Vermentino and Viognier. The name “Girasasso” recalls the massive presence of stones in the soils. It symbolizes strength and tenacity that, ten years after its founding, are beginning to yield concrete results. The estate promotes sustainable viticulture, attentive to soil regeneration, and distinctive, eye-catching, and unforgettable labels, just like that of the Viognier La volpe & l’uva.

The Lagrein Trentino DOC Zio Bepi 2023 is a medium-bodied and highly drinkable red, saline and crisp, made from grapes grown in Palù di Giovo, at approximately 600 meters altitude. We’re in Val di Cembra, an area that produces some of Trentino’s most authentic wines. It stands out for its “Pinot Noir-like” interpretation of a variety known in the market for its great structure and significant alcohol levels, rather than for pleasantness and lightheartedness.

Variety and origin clear with every sip. Azienda Agricola Simoni, located in Palù di Giovo, in the province of Trento, works in Val di Cembra on calcareous and clay soils. A family winery with roots in the postwar period, starting with Giuseppe Simoni, the “Zio Bepi” to whom this Lagrein is dedicated. After him came his son Ferruccio, who began taking his first steps in the cellar in the 1970s. Today at the helm is Michele Simoni, third generation of the family, a winegrower attentive to modern market dynamics, without forgetting tradition.