{"id":106270,"date":"2026-10-15T02:00:00","date_gmt":"2026-10-15T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/?p=106270"},"modified":"2026-10-14T15:47:14","modified_gmt":"2026-10-14T13:47:14","slug":"tokaj-and-hungarian-wine-szepsy-red-wines-why-not-langhe-a-model","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/en\/tokaj-and-hungarian-wine-szepsy-red-wines-why-not-langhe-a-model\/","title":{"rendered":"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy: &#8220;Red wines, why not? Langhe? A model&#8221;"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"wp-block-yoast-seo-ai-summarize yoast-ai-summarize\"><h5>IN BRIEF<\/h5>\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list yoast-ai-summarize-list\">\n<li>Climate change could push Tokaj toward growing red grape varieties such as Kadarka and K\u00e9kfrankos.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Istv\u00e1n Szepsy Jr, interviewed exclusively by Winemag, stresses the importance of defending Tokaj&#8217;s identity while diversifying production.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Agronomic research is helping to study grape varieties better suited to new climate conditions.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Szepsy criticizes overly permissive appellations that undermine the reputation of unique products and would favor a more ethical, sustainable model.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The future of Tokaj&#8217;s white wines, however, remains tied primarily to Furmint, the central variety in local production.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n\r\n<div class=\"align wp-block-bssb-social-share\" id=\"bssbSocialShare-1\" data-attributes=\"{&quot;socials&quot;:[{&quot;networkType&quot;:&quot;socialNetworks&quot;,&quot;network&quot;:&quot;facebook&quot;,&quot;isUpIcon&quot;:false,&quot;icon&quot;:{&quot;class&quot;:&quot;fab fa-facebook-f&quot;,&quot;color&quot;:&quot;#4527a4&quot;},&quot;upIcon&quot;:{&quot;id&quot;:null,&quot;url&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}},{&quot;networkType&quot;:&quot;socialNetworks&quot;,&quot;network&quot;:&quot;linkedin&quot;,&quot;isUpIcon&quot;:false,&quot;icon&quot;:{&quot;class&quot;:&quot;fab fa-linkedin-in&quot;,&quot;color&quot;:&quot;#4527a4&quot;},&quot;upIcon&quot;:{&quot;id&quot;:null,&quot;url&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}},{&quot;networkType&quot;:&quot;mobileMessenger&quot;,&quot;network&quot;:&quot;whatsapp&quot;,&quot;isUpIcon&quot;:false,&quot;icon&quot;:{&quot;class&quot;:&quot;fab fa-whatsapp&quot;,&quot;color&quot;:&quot;#4527a4&quot;},&quot;upIcon&quot;:{&quot;id&quot;:null,&quot;url&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}}],&quot;theme&quot;:&quot;theme2&quot;,&quot;background&quot;:{&quot;type&quot;:&quot;solid&quot;,&quot;color&quot;:&quot;#0000&quot;},&quot;border&quot;:{&quot;width&quot;:&quot;2px&quot;,&quot;color&quot;:&quot;#4527a4&quot;},&quot;shadow&quot;:{&quot;hOffset&quot;:&quot;0px&quot;,&quot;vOffset&quot;:&quot;0px&quot;},&quot;align&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alignment&quot;:&quot;left&quot;,&quot;size&quot;:&quot;28px&quot;,&quot;gap&quot;:&quot;14px&quot;,&quot;padding&quot;:&quot;10px&quot;,&quot;margin&quot;:&quot;10px&quot;,&quot;direction&quot;:&quot;row&quot;}\">\r\n\t<div class=\"bssbStyle\"><\/div>\r\n\r\n\t<ul class=\"bssbSocialShare\">\r\n\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<li class=\"icon icon-0\" data-social=\"facebook\" \t>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<i class=\"fab fa-facebook-f\"><\/i>\r\n\t\t\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<\/li>\r\n\r\n\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<li class=\"icon icon-1\" data-social=\"linkedin\" \t>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<i class=\"fab fa-linkedin-in\"><\/i>\r\n\t\t\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<\/li>\r\n\r\n\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<li class=\"icon icon-2\" data-social=\"whatsapp\" \t>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<i class=\"fab fa-whatsapp\"><\/i>\r\n\t\t\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<\/li>\r\n\r\n\t\t\r\n\t<\/ul>\r\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Climate change<\/strong> could push some areas of <strong>Tokaj toward growing red grape varieties, such as Kadarka and K\u00e9kfrankos.<\/strong> Until a few years ago, this prospect would have seemed almost unthinkable in one of the world&#8217;s most celebrated regions for sweet white wines. Yet it is one of the possibilities that <strong>Istv\u00e1n Szepsy Jr<\/strong> is exploring, convinced that the future of the territory calls for a <strong>deep overhaul of production and commercial strategies<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">&#8220;And that wouldn&#8217;t mean giving up Tokaj&#8217;s identity,&#8221; the <strong>scion of the historic Hungarian winemaking family<\/strong> is quick to clarify, rolling up his sweatshirt sleeves in the winery&#8217;s elegant tasting room at 59 Batthy\u00e1ny utca, in the heart of <strong>M\u00e1d<\/strong>. On the contrary, &#8220;it needs to be defended more decisively, by clearly distinguishing the great sweet wines from dry Furmints and other emerging styles.&#8221; In the background looms an issue affecting all of Hungarian wine: <strong>the difficulty of building appellations that are recognizable and competitive on international markets<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In the exclusive interview given to Winemag, accompanied by a tasting of the estate&#8217;s latest vintages, Szepsy addresses the industry&#8217;s contradictions without diplomacy. <strong>He even points to a model worth drawing inspiration from: Piedmont&#8217;s Langhe<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-5df47513\"><h2 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>CLIMATE CHANGE IN TOKAJ: HISTORIC ZONES ARE BECOMING TOO HOT<\/strong><\/h2><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Standing in front of the map of Tokaj&#8217;s vineyards, Szepsy points to one of the most pressing issues. <strong>Some areas historically suited to producing highly concentrated grapes<\/strong> are becoming excessively hot and dry. &#8220;I don&#8217;t think this area has a serious future, because it&#8217;s already too hot,&#8221; he says, pointing to one of the region&#8217;s southern zones.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In the past, those very climate conditions favored the natural raisining of the grapes, making it possible to produce sweet wines even without the development of Botrytis. Today, <strong>rising temperatures threaten to upset that balance<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The answer may come from agronomic research and clonal selection. <strong>Szepsy works with universities and researchers<\/strong> to study how different varieties behave under different environmental conditions. Among the trials are also <strong>some clones of Kadarka and K\u00e9kfrankos<\/strong>, red grape varieties known for particularly late ripening, sometimes extending past mid-October.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">These are still trials on a limited number of vines, with no immediate commercial purpose. But <strong>the goal is to understand whether red varieties could be an alternative<\/strong> in areas that may become less suited to whites in the future.<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-5cfc33bd\"><h2 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>RED WINES IN TOKAJ? YES TO THE TERRITORY, NO TO THE APPELLATION<\/strong><\/h2><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Szepsy, however, draws a clear line. The possibility of growing red grapes doesn&#8217;t necessarily mean they should enter the Tokaj appellation. <strong>&#8220;Tokaj wine, by tradition, must be white,&#8221;<\/strong> he points out. The distinction concerns the relationship between geographic territory and the appellation&#8217;s identity.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A Kadarka produced in the area could find its place as a <strong>red wine from northern Hungary<\/strong>, possibly promoted under <strong>a broader territorial indication, such as Zempl\u00e9n, named after the mountain range<\/strong> of volcanic origin that underpins the very existence of the region&#8217;s viticultural excellence. It&#8217;s a prospect the producer finds more compelling than chasing international models.<\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote has-medium-font-size is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\" style=\"padding-top:0;padding-bottom:0\">\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size wp-block-paragraph\">&#8220;<strong>Pinot Noir<\/strong>, for example,&#8221; notes Szepsy Jr, &#8220;<strong>has to compete with already highly accomplished competition worldwide<\/strong>. <strong>Kadarka and K\u00e9kfrankos<\/strong>, on the other hand, offer the chance to develop wines with a <strong>genuinely Hungarian character<\/strong>.&#8221;<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-df66c063\"><h2 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>FURMINT: OVER A HUNDRED CLONES AND A RESOURCE STILL TO BE DISCOVERED<\/strong><\/h2><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>The future of white wines remains closely tied to Furmint<\/strong>, the variety on which Szepsy focuses most of his vineyard work. &#8220;I&#8217;m a vineyard man. I&#8217;m not a producer who thinks purely in business terms,&#8221; he remarks. According to the producer, <strong>over a hundred clones of Furmint are already known in Tokaj<\/strong>, with many more likely still unidentified.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A genetic wealth he considers &#8220;important evidence of the variety&#8217;s origin right here in this region,&#8221; especially in light of the recent discovery concerning <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/en\/hungarian-furmint-and-turkish-kolorko-share-the-same-genetic-profile\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Kolorko, a Turkish grape with the same genetic profile as Furmint<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-wp-embed is-provider-winemag-it-davide-bortone-wine-magazine-italiano-guida-vini-wine-news wp-block-embed-winemag-it-davide-bortone-wine-magazine-italiano-guida-vini-wine-news\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<blockquote class=\"wp-embedded-content\" data-secret=\"ZKT2IBjthn\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/furmint-ungherese-kolorko-turco-stesso-profilo-genetico-scoperta-jose-vouillamoz-seyit-karagozoglu\/\">Furmint ungherese e Kolorko turco hanno lo stesso profilo genetico<\/a><\/blockquote><iframe class=\"wp-embedded-content\" sandbox=\"allow-scripts\" security=\"restricted\" style=\"position: absolute; visibility: hidden;\" title=\"\u201cFurmint ungherese e Kolorko turco hanno lo stesso profilo genetico\u201d \u2014 Winemag.it - Davide Bortone: wine magazine italiano, guida vini, wine news\" src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/furmint-ungherese-kolorko-turco-stesso-profilo-genetico-scoperta-jose-vouillamoz-seyit-karagozoglu\/embed\/#?secret=DrWaPCpdiQ#?secret=ZKT2IBjthn\" data-secret=\"ZKT2IBjthn\" width=\"500\" height=\"282\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\"><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Differences between clones also extend to how they respond to environmental conditions<\/strong>. Some show traits potentially useful for cooler areas, others for drought-prone ones.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Szepsy believes it will take decades of study to fully understand this diversity. Meanwhile, the <strong>rise of dry Furmints, which have driven Tokaj&#8217;s transformation over the past twenty-five years<\/strong>, raises new questions about vineyard classification and wine longevity.<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-5cf24b15\"><h2 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>418 HISTORIC CRUS, BUT FEWER THAN 60 VINIFIED SEPARATELY<\/strong><\/h2><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tokaj has an ancient classification system identifying <strong>418 crus, 52 of which fall into the top category<\/strong>. An extraordinary heritage, but one not yet sufficiently explored through contemporary production.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">According to figures cited by Szepsy, about half of the historically identified units are cultivated today, and <strong>fewer than sixty crus have seen producers pursue separate vinification<\/strong>. The geological differences are considerable: Szepsy distinguishes, for instance, <strong>andesitic soils<\/strong>, associated with elegant, floral, long-lived wines, from <strong>rhyolitic<\/strong> ones, which can yield more powerful, structured wines.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">That&#8217;s why he considers it <strong>&#8220;premature to define a definitive classification for dry wines.&#8221;<\/strong> &#8220;First we need to build experience,&#8221; he explains, &#8220;verify the consistent quality of individual vineyards, and understand which traits are truly linked to their origin.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-46e31a7c\"><h2 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>A NEW HIERARCHY FOR TOKAJ: &#8220;BUT SWEET WINES SHOULD STAY AT THE TOP&#8221;<\/strong><\/h2><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It&#8217;s precisely on the structure of the appellation that Szepsy offers one of the most important reflections in the exclusive interview given to Winemag. The <strong>global decline in sweet wine consumption is a clear problem<\/strong>. But giving up Tokaj&#8217;s historical heritage &#8220;just to chase market trends&#8221; would, in his view, &#8220;be a mistake.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote has-medium-font-size is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\" style=\"padding-top:0;padding-bottom:0\">\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size wp-block-paragraph\">&#8220;I would rather imagine a hierarchy in which <strong>the most prestigious quality tier remains reserved for sweet wines<\/strong>. An intermediate tier could showcase both these and dry Furmints, while less traditional productions would find room through a broader territorial identity.&#8221;<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>The reference is also to the relationship between Porto and the Douro<\/strong>, where different styles coexist without blurring their respective identities. This isn&#8217;t a reform already set in stone, but a possible direction. &#8220;In Tokaj,&#8221; Szepsy explains, &#8220;there&#8217;s still an underlying problem: the <strong>lack of sufficiently selective rules to distinguish the most prestigious expressions<\/strong>.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">An attempt to introduce stricter criteria has been underway in the M\u00e1d area, through a voluntary local system. The goal is to <strong>highlight varietal purity and grape provenance<\/strong>, especially for single-vineyard wines: just consider <strong>Szent Tam\u00e1s, \u00d6reg Kir\u00e1ly, Betsek, Nyul\u00e1sz\u00f3, and \u00dar\u00e1gya<\/strong>. All of them exceptional, recognizable, and distinct expressions of M\u00e1d, which is just one of the 27 villages in the Tokaj wine region (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002).<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-0518a74f\"><h2 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>TOKAJ SPARKLING WINES, SZEPSY TEMPERS EXPECTATIONS: &#8220;&#8216;FLAWLESS&#8217; DOESN&#8217;T MEAN &#8216;INTERESTING'&#8221;<\/strong><\/h2><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Another shift concerns sparkling wines. <strong>Szepsy estimates that about a third of Tokaj&#8217;s producers have started making them<\/strong>, taking advantage of Furmint&#8217;s natural acidity. He himself recalls getting into bubbles back in 2009, out of personal passion, an experience that taught him a lesson: &#8220;<strong>It&#8217;s not enough to make a technically correct wine<\/strong>.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote has-medium-font-size is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\" style=\"padding-top:0;padding-bottom:0\">\n<p class=\"has-medium-font-size wp-block-paragraph\">&#8220;I still remember <strong>an Italian friend&#8217;s verdict on a local sparkling wine<\/strong>: &#8216;No obvious flaws,&#8217; he told me, before adding: &#8216;But nothing that really made it interesting, either.'&#8221;<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It&#8217;s a judgment Szepsy extends to dry wines as well. &#8220;The real challenge today,&#8221; he stresses, &#8220;lies in <strong>achieving wines with a recognizable character, consistent quality, and a genuine ability to evolve over time<\/strong>. Simply multiplying styles, on its own, isn&#8217;t enough of a strategy for the region&#8217;s future.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-e77994ad\"><h2 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>HUNGARIAN WINE, SZEPSY&#8217;S CRITIQUE: &#8220;EVERY REGION MUST FIND ITS OWN STYLE&#8221;<\/strong><\/h2><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Broadening the discussion to Hungary as a whole, the producer identifies <strong>fragmented offerings<\/strong> as one of the main commercial limitations. &#8220;I think every region needs to find its own style,&#8221; he argues. &#8220;<strong>What&#8217;s needed is a core group of ten or fifteen wineries<\/strong> capable of sharing a shared territorial vision while still preserving their own individual character.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>The cautionary example is Eger and its Egri Bikav\u00e9r<\/strong>, the &#8220;Bull&#8217;s Blood.&#8221; Szepsy sees K\u00e9kfrankos as one of the area&#8217;s most compelling varietal expressions, but questions the need to subordinate it to the tradition of blending. In his view, <strong>overly permissive appellations<\/strong> &#8220;end up encompassing products of widely varying quality and ambition, making it hard to <strong>build a unified reputation and command higher prices<\/strong>.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The diversity of Hungary&#8217;s vineyards can be an asset for local tourism and dining, but <strong>abroad, it risks becoming a hurdle<\/strong> when there&#8217;s no immediately clear message: &#8220;If you don&#8217;t have your &#8216;elevator pitch&#8217; ready, short and direct, you&#8217;re lost on the world stage.&#8221;<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div\n\t\t\t\t\t\tclass=\"wp-block-uagb-image-gallery uagb-block-3b49ecb6     \"\n\t\t\t\t\t\tstyle=\"\"\n\t\t\t\t\t>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery spectra-image-gallery__layout--carousel\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"uagb-slick-carousel uagb-block-3b49ecb6\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-wrapper\" data-spectra-gallery-image-id=\"106252\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media spectra-image-gallery__media--carousel\">\n\t\t\t\t<picture>\n\t\t\t\t\t<source media=\"(min-width: 1024px)\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-5.jpg\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-5-840x640.jpg\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail--carousel\" src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-5.jpg\" alt=\"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy &quot;Red wines, why not&quot;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine (5)\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>\n\t\t\t\t<\/picture>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-blurrer\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption-wrapper spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption-wrapper--overlay\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption--overlay\">\n\t\t\t\t\tTokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy: &#8220;Red wines, why not?&#8221;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine &#8211; EXCLUSIVE WINEMAG INTERVIEW\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-wrapper\" data-spectra-gallery-image-id=\"106253\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media spectra-image-gallery__media--carousel\">\n\t\t\t\t<picture>\n\t\t\t\t\t<source media=\"(min-width: 1024px)\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-1.jpg\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-1-840x640.jpg\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail--carousel\" src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-1.jpg\" alt=\"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy &quot;Red wines, why not&quot;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine (1)\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>\n\t\t\t\t<\/picture>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-blurrer\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption-wrapper spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption-wrapper--overlay\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption--overlay\">\n\t\t\t\t\tTokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy: &#8220;Red wines, why not?&#8221;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine &#8211; EXCLUSIVE WINEMAG INTERVIEW\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-wrapper\" data-spectra-gallery-image-id=\"106250\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media spectra-image-gallery__media--carousel\">\n\t\t\t\t<picture>\n\t\t\t\t\t<source media=\"(min-width: 1024px)\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-3.jpg\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-3-840x640.jpg\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail--carousel\" src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-3.jpg\" alt=\"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy &quot;Red wines, why not&quot;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine (3)\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>\n\t\t\t\t<\/picture>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-blurrer\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption-wrapper spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption-wrapper--overlay\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption--overlay\">\n\t\t\t\t\tTokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy: &#8220;Red wines, why not?&#8221;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine &#8211; EXCLUSIVE WINEMAG INTERVIEW\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-wrapper\" data-spectra-gallery-image-id=\"106251\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media spectra-image-gallery__media--carousel\">\n\t\t\t\t<picture>\n\t\t\t\t\t<source media=\"(min-width: 1024px)\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-4.jpg\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-4-840x640.jpg\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail--carousel\" src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-4.jpg\" alt=\"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy &quot;Red wines, why not&quot;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine (4)\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>\n\t\t\t\t<\/picture>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-blurrer\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption-wrapper spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption-wrapper--overlay\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption--overlay\">\n\t\t\t\t\tTokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy: &#8220;Red wines, why not?&#8221;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine &#8211; EXCLUSIVE WINEMAG INTERVIEW\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-wrapper\" data-spectra-gallery-image-id=\"106249\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media spectra-image-gallery__media--carousel\">\n\t\t\t\t<picture>\n\t\t\t\t\t<source media=\"(min-width: 1024px)\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-2.jpg\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<source media=\"(min-width: 768px)\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-2-840x640.jpg\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail--carousel\" src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-2.jpg\" alt=\"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy &quot;Red wines, why not&quot;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine (2)\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>\n\t\t\t\t<\/picture>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-blurrer\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption-wrapper spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption-wrapper--overlay\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption spectra-image-gallery__media-thumbnail-caption--overlay\">\n\t\t\t\t\tTokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy: &#8220;Red wines, why not?&#8221;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine &#8211; EXCLUSIVE WINEMAG INTERVIEW\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class='spectra-image-gallery__control-lightbox' tabindex='0'>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper spectra-image-gallery__control-lightbox--main\" dir=\"\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-wrapper\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-slide\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img class=\"swiper-lazy\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-5.jpg\" alt=\"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy &quot;Red wines, why not&quot;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine (5)\"\/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-lazy-preloader swiper-lazy-preloader-white\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-slide\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img class=\"swiper-lazy\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-1.jpg\" alt=\"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy &quot;Red wines, why not&quot;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine (1)\"\/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-lazy-preloader swiper-lazy-preloader-white\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-slide\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img class=\"swiper-lazy\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-3.jpg\" alt=\"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy &quot;Red wines, why not&quot;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine (3)\"\/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-lazy-preloader swiper-lazy-preloader-white\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-slide\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img class=\"swiper-lazy\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-4.jpg\" alt=\"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy &quot;Red wines, why not&quot;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine (4)\"\/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-lazy-preloader swiper-lazy-preloader-white\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-slide\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img class=\"swiper-lazy\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Tokaj-e-vino-ungherese-Szepsy-Vini-rossi-perche-no.-Le-sfide-del-futuro-del-vino-dell-ungheria-2.jpg\" alt=\"Tokaj and Hungarian wine, Szepsy &quot;Red wines, why not&quot;. The challenges of the future of Hungarian wine (2)\"\/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-lazy-preloader swiper-lazy-preloader-white\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-button-next\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"swiper-button-prev\"><\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<button class='spectra-image-gallery__control-lightbox--close' aria-label=\"Close\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<svg xmlns=\"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" viewBox= \"0 0 320 512\"><path d=\"M310.6 361.4c12.5 12.5 12.5 32.75 0 45.25C304.4 412.9 296.2 416 288 416s-16.38-3.125-22.62-9.375L160 301.3L54.63 406.6C48.38 412.9 40.19 416 32 416S15.63 412.9 9.375 406.6c-12.5-12.5-12.5-32.75 0-45.25l105.4-105.4L9.375 150.6c-12.5-12.5-12.5-32.75 0-45.25s32.75-12.5 45.25 0L160 210.8l105.4-105.4c12.5-12.5 32.75-12.5 45.25 0s12.5 32.75 0 45.25l-105.4 105.4L310.6 361.4z\"><\/path><\/svg>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/button>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-e97ec443\"><h2 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>EXPORT: TOKAJ STILL SELLS MOSTLY IN HUNGARY<\/strong><\/h2><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The problem is reflected in international markets. According to an outdated estimate provided by Szepsy, <strong>between 60 and 70% of Tokaj wines are sold on the domestic market<\/strong>. His own winery, despite relatively modest volumes, must maintain a presence in more than twenty countries to sell its production.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">&#8220;Part of the weight,&#8221; the producer points out, &#8220;comes from <strong>the legacy of the socialist era, which did not foster the creation of an integrated market<\/strong> among Central and Eastern European countries.&#8221; But Szepsy doesn&#8217;t attribute the commercial difficulties mainly to recent political tensions.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Asked about the possible impact of Hungary&#8217;s diplomatic relations with certain European countries ahead of the elections that led to <strong>the change of the Orb\u00e1n government<\/strong>, Szepsy dismisses overly simplistic explanations. &#8220;<strong>Merchants<\/strong>,&#8221; he says, &#8220;<strong>don&#8217;t give up profit just because of politics<\/strong>. Numbers always matter most; politics comes, at best, second.&#8221; The real issue, then, remains companies&#8217; ability to make their wines competitive and desirable.<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-69fb796e\"><h2 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>FROM FEWER THAN 50 TO NEARLY 300 LABELS: INTERNAL COMPETITION IN TOKAJ<\/strong><\/h2><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The production landscape has also changed radically. According to Szepsy, before Hungary joined the European Union, fewer than fifty wine labels operated in Tokaj. Today there are nearly three hundred. &#8220;<strong>The rise in investment<\/strong>,&#8221; he recalls, &#8220;has helped restore buildings and vineyards, but <strong>hasn&#8217;t always resulted in economically self-sufficient<\/strong> and sustainable businesses.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>The producer criticizes &#8220;businesses backed by capital from activities unrelated to wine&#8221;<\/strong>, which can afford to keep operating even without real profitability. The Szepsy family, by contrast, has chosen to finance its business through bottle sales, avoiding competition in the lower-priced segments.<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Hence the need to <strong>personally oversee international markets<\/strong>, building commercial relationships and <strong>constantly comparing notes with the world&#8217;s top producers<\/strong>. It&#8217;s no coincidence that Szepsy is a brand <strong>exclusively distributed in Italy by Ceretto<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-9388e24c\"><h2 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>THE LANGHE MODEL AND THE LESSON FROM ANGELO GAJA<\/strong><\/h2><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It&#8217;s in Italy that Szepsy finds one of the most compelling examples of territorial development: &#8220;<strong>I think Barolo and Barbaresco are the best example for Hungarians of how a wine region can develop<\/strong>.&#8221; The producer <strong>regularly visits the Langhe<\/strong>, seeking out wineries and different interpretations of the territory. He also recounts <strong>a five-hour conversation with Angelo Gaja<\/strong>, without tasting a single wine.<\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote has-medium-font-size is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\" style=\"padding-top:0;padding-bottom:0\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">&#8220;We spent that entire time talking about the economic and social transformation of the Langhe area. What strikes me is <strong>the journey that took vineyards, once abandoned, to reach extremely high land values<\/strong>. But above all, the ability to build a hierarchy in which Barolo, Barbaresco, and Langhe coexist alongside different varieties, such as Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, and Freisa.&#8221;<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A system that, in Szepsy&#8217;s reading, shows &#8220;how important it is to believe in your own grapes&#8221; and &#8220;to clearly define the characteristics of appellations.&#8221; It&#8217;s not enough, then, &#8220;to import a production model or imitate great foreign wines.&#8221; &#8220;<strong>What&#8217;s needed is to develop a sense of place<\/strong>,&#8221; he warns, &#8220;<strong>grounded in knowledge of the vineyards and a recognizable style<\/strong>.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">His sweatshirt sleeves stay rolled up at elbow height as the interview draws to a close at Szepsy&#8217;s headquarters in M\u00e1d. &#8220;In the end, we could sit here for hours talking. But it all starts with taste. Taste comes first. And then, <strong>once the taste is there, you can build the rules around it<\/strong>.&#8221; Sweet or dry, the &#8220;taste&#8221; in Szepsy&#8217;s glasses is a tribute to the most authentic Hungarian wine.<\/p>\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/en\/masters-of-wine-2026-seven-new-entries-portugal-and-hungary-join-the-mw-map\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Masters of Wine 2026: seven new inductees, Portugal and Hungary join the MW map<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/en\/sweet-and-sparkling-tokaj-wines-hungary-reorganizes-wine-styles\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Sweet and sparkling Tokaj wines: Hungary brings order to the categories<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/villany-nuova-frontiera-cabernet-franc-in-ungheria-concorso-franc-du-monde\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Vill\u00e1ny, new frontier for Cabernet Franc: Hungary hosts the first Franc du Monde competition<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/diritti-lgbt-ungheria-orban-bere-vino-ristorante-guida-alcol-joseph-bock\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Forget LGBT rights: Hungary asks Orb\u00e1n for the right to drink wine at restaurants<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/en\/juhfark-hungarys-volcanic-grape-variety-a-tasting-of-26-labels-with-scores\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Juhfark, Hungary&#8217;s volcanic grape variety: a tasting of 26 labels with scores<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Kadarka and K\u00e9kfrankos are making their mark, with Pinot Noir in the background. Winemag&#8217;s exclusive interview at the winery&#8217;s headquarters in M\u00e1d.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":106271,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[82554,82860,82271],"tags":[83623,83622,91434,87548,91430,91428,83949,91437,91429,91426,89611,83619,91427,91432,91438,83948,91431,91436,91433,91435,91439],"class_list":["post-106270","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-international-news-wine","category-market-and-consumption","category-wine-news","tag-barbaresco","tag-barolo","tag-dry-furmint","tag-furmint","tag-future-of-hungarian-wine","tag-hungarian-sparkling-wines","tag-hungarian-wine","tag-hungarian-wine-export","tag-istvan-szepsy-jr","tag-kadarka","tag-kekfrankos","tag-langhe","tag-mad","tag-native-hungarian-grape-varieties","tag-szepsy-winery","tag-tokaj","tag-tokaj-climate-change","tag-tokaj-cru","tag-tokaj-sweet-wines","tag-tokaj-vineyard-classification","tag-zemplen-wine-region"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v28.7 (Yoast SEO v28.7) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Tokaj, Szepsy speaks out: &quot;Red wines, why not? 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