{"id":100768,"date":"2025-08-21T21:42:35","date_gmt":"2025-08-21T19:42:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/leoncavallo-eviction-farewell-to-resistant-wine-and-la-terra-trema\/"},"modified":"2026-05-21T09:22:36","modified_gmt":"2026-05-21T07:22:36","slug":"leoncavallo-eviction-farewell-to-resistant-wine-and-la-terra-trema","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/en\/leoncavallo-eviction-farewell-to-resistant-wine-and-la-terra-trema\/","title":{"rendered":"Leoncavallo eviction: farewell to resistant wine and La Terra Trema?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The Milanese social center has been evicted; over the years, it had provided space for initiatives related to the world of natural wine. With the police operation, a chapter that combined barricades and tastings\u2014between politics and carafes of &#8220;bulk red&#8221; in bottles\u2014comes to a close. The eviction likely also ends the season of the &#8220;rebel glass&#8221; of the Folletto di Abbiategrasso.   <\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\r\n<div class=\"align wp-block-bssb-social-share\" id=\"bssbSocialShare-1\" data-attributes=\"{&quot;socials&quot;:[{&quot;networkType&quot;:&quot;socialNetworks&quot;,&quot;network&quot;:&quot;facebook&quot;,&quot;isUpIcon&quot;:false,&quot;icon&quot;:{&quot;class&quot;:&quot;fab fa-facebook-f&quot;,&quot;color&quot;:&quot;#1877f2&quot;},&quot;upIcon&quot;:{&quot;id&quot;:null,&quot;url&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}},{&quot;networkType&quot;:&quot;socialNetworks&quot;,&quot;network&quot;:&quot;linkedin&quot;,&quot;isUpIcon&quot;:false,&quot;icon&quot;:{&quot;class&quot;:&quot;fab fa-linkedin-in&quot;,&quot;color&quot;:&quot;#0a66c2&quot;},&quot;upIcon&quot;:{&quot;id&quot;:null,&quot;url&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}},{&quot;networkType&quot;:&quot;mobileMessenger&quot;,&quot;network&quot;:&quot;whatsapp&quot;,&quot;isUpIcon&quot;:false,&quot;icon&quot;:{&quot;class&quot;:&quot;fab fa-whatsapp&quot;,&quot;color&quot;:&quot;#25d366&quot;},&quot;upIcon&quot;:{&quot;id&quot;:null,&quot;url&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alt&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}}],&quot;align&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;alignment&quot;:&quot;left&quot;,&quot;theme&quot;:&quot;default&quot;,&quot;background&quot;:{&quot;color&quot;:&quot;#0000&quot;},&quot;size&quot;:&quot;28px&quot;,&quot;gap&quot;:&quot;14px&quot;,&quot;padding&quot;:&quot;10px&quot;,&quot;margin&quot;:&quot;10px&quot;,&quot;border&quot;:{&quot;radius&quot;:&quot;50%&quot;},&quot;shadow&quot;:[],&quot;direction&quot;:&quot;row&quot;}\">\r\n\t<div class=\"bssbStyle\"><\/div>\r\n\r\n\t<ul class=\"bssbSocialShare\">\r\n\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<li class=\"icon icon-0\" data-social=\"facebook\" \t>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<i class=\"fab fa-facebook-f\"><\/i>\r\n\t\t\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<\/li>\r\n\r\n\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<li class=\"icon icon-1\" data-social=\"linkedin\" \t>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<i class=\"fab fa-linkedin-in\"><\/i>\r\n\t\t\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<\/li>\r\n\r\n\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<li class=\"icon icon-2\" data-social=\"whatsapp\" \t>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<i class=\"fab fa-whatsapp\"><\/i>\r\n\t\t\t\t\r\n\t\t\t<\/li>\r\n\r\n\t\t\r\n\t<\/ul>\r\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">EDITORIAL &#8211; This morning, the <strong>eviction of Leoncavallo<\/strong> restored order to <strong>via Watteau<\/strong> in <strong>Milan<\/strong>. A swift operation, without resistance or violence, ending <strong>over thirty years of occupation<\/strong>. Beyond the concerts, assemblies, and graffiti, wine also flowed within the walls of the social center. Not the wine of the big fairs, of Verona&#8217;s Vinitaly, or the &#8220;kermesses&#8221; moving from Piacenza to Bologna Fiere. But self-managed wine, served amidst debates and &#8220;zero-km&#8221; agricultural manifesto dishes\u2014much cooler than certain Ficos, to return to the Bolognese <em>refrain<\/em>.     <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Over the years, Leoncavallo had carved out <strong>a space in the food and wine scene<\/strong> as well, hosting initiatives like <strong>La Terra Trema<\/strong>, a fair for independent artisanal producers and winemakers. <strong>Wine in via Watteau thus became a symbol of resistance in the city of fashion and trendy glasses<\/strong>. Almost more of a political manifesto than an agricultural product, in a high sense. Glasses raised not so much to celebrate harvests, but to challenge the system. Not without anachronistic flights of fancy, passed off as a faithful account of the <em>Hic et nunc<\/em>. Of the <em>Here and Now<\/em> that will lead us all to ruin, closely tied to the logic of industry multinationals.     <\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-c0bfa2e2\"><h5 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>THE BITTERSWEET CHALICE OF THE GOVERNMENT<\/strong><\/h5><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">One thing is certain. With today&#8217;s eviction, August 21, 2025, the Meloni Government has uncorked an affair that had lasted for decades. <strong>The Prime Minister spoke of the end of &#8220;free zones&#8221;<\/strong> and a return to legality. An institutional toast that leaves the memory of the glasses shared at Leoncavallo in limbo, but also marks the end of an anomaly that had long divided the city and its politics.     <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The wine served at the social center had the merit of originality, but not always of form. Self-managed tastings, collective carafes, and glasses that weren&#8217;t always technically &#8220;clean&#8221; told of <strong>an alternative way of approaching Bacchus&#8217;s nectar<\/strong>. A language far from that of guides and the most prestigious wineries. More slogan than terroir? More militancy than awareness of flaws? Today, the answer is even more secondary.     <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">With the closure of Leoncavallo, Milan loses <strong>a place where wine and politics intertwined in a unique way<\/strong>. But at the same time, a season ends in which alcohol became a banner for battles that had little to do with vineyards and spontaneous fermentations. Well beyond the ethical and social commitment required of people, even before professionals with a modicum of dignity.  <\/p>\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-yoast-seo-related-links yoast-seo-related-links\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/la-terra-trema-2019-al-leoncavallo-100-vignaioli-dal-29-novembre-al-1-dicembre\/\">La Terra Trema 2019: 100 winemakers at Leoncavallo, from November 29 to December 1<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/la-terra-trema-calici-no-migliori-vini-degustati-al-leoncavallo\/\">La Terra Trema, the glasses don&#8217;t: the best wines tasted at Leoncavallo<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/la-terra-trema-mercato-fivi-2022-weekend-vino-italiano-milano-piacenza\/\">La Terra Trema opens, Fivi Market 2022 closes: the long weekend of Italian wine<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/la-terra-trema-2024-leoncavallo-contro-agricoltura-4-0-intelligenza-artificiale\/\">La Terra Trema 2024 against Agriculture 4.0 and artificial intelligence<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.winemag.it\/italia-svizzera-si-incontrano-alla-fiera-agricola-abbiategrasso\/\">Italy and Switzerland meet at the Abbiategrasso Agricultural Fair<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-uagb-advanced-heading uagb-block-e3496b24\"><h5 class=\"uagb-heading-text\"><strong>WHO IS BEHIND \u201cLA TERRA TREMA\u201d AT LEONCAVALLO<\/strong><\/h5><\/div>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The fair was not born at Leoncavallo, but elsewhere. It was the <strong>Folletto 25603 collective from Abbiategrasso<\/strong>, a town on the outskirts of Milan, that created the event in the early 2000s. A <strong>self-managed showcase<\/strong> that, over time, found its most convenient\u2014and expected\u2014home in the Milanese social center. There, it transformed into a regular appointment for independent winemakers, farmers, and the curious looking for an alternative glass, far from the logic of the big official fairs.     <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The <strong>uniqueness of La Terra Trema<\/strong> was exactly this: no sponsors, no institutional contributions, only volunteering and militancy. To taste, membership in the collective was mandatory, even for the press. The result? A mix of tasting and political demonstration, where wine risked becoming\u2014sometimes, not always\u2014a pretext for other battles. With the eviction, the curtain falls on this ritual too, at least at Leoncavallo. And perhaps <strong>Milan can now finally have a serious discussion about wine<\/strong>, without having to go through a <strong>preconceived membership card<\/strong>.      <\/p>\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"font-size:0px\">Leoncavallo eviction: farewell to resistant wine and La Terra Trema? <a href=\"https:\/\/www.laterratrema.org\/.\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">https:\/\/www.laterratrema.org\/.<\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.leoncavallo.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">https:\/\/www.leoncavallo.org\/<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Milanese social center has been evicted; over the years, it had provided space for initiatives related to the world of natural wine. With the police operation, a chapter that combined barricades and tastings\u2014between politics and carafes of &#8220;bulk red&#8221; in bottles\u2014comes to a close. The eviction likely also ends the season of the &#8220;rebel [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":100770,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[82746,82271],"tags":[86203,83299,83302,86215,86206,86224,86209,86212,86218,83104,86221,83066],"class_list":["post-100768","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-editorials","category-wine-news","tag-abbiategrasso","tag-davide-bortone","tag-editorial","tag-eviction","tag-folletto","tag-folletto-25603","tag-la-terra-trema","tag-leoncavallo","tag-leoncavallo-eviction","tag-milan","tag-social-center","tag-wine"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v27.6 (Yoast SEO v27.6) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Leoncavallo eviction: farewell to resistant wine and La Terra Trema?<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Leoncavallo eviction: farewell to resistant wine and La Terra Trema? 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